e. equation(12) Cgh=C21+2khsinh2kh, where

C=LT=ωk is the phase velocity of the wave. The resulting pressure p and the velocity u and v at the point of depth h are given by formulas  (2), (6) and (7). Under such assumed conditions of changing depth, the speed of propagation C  , the group velocity Cg   and the length L   of the waves are decreasing. According to the principle of conservation of energy the wave height H   is increasing. However, the spreading waves, sooner or later, dissipate as a result of their breaking. The factor controlling wave breaking is the steepness s  , defined as the ratio of wave height H   to wave length L,   s=HL ( Holthuijsen 2007). This process occurs in different ways, depending on the wave parameters and the slope of the bottom. Let us demonstrate Aurora Kinase inhibitor RG7420 mw briefly the mechanism by which the mean sea level

elevation ζ¯ changes. Immediately before the wave breaking point (Figure 2), the average water level changes slightly (a very small set-down). As a result of the wave breaking, the wave height decreases and a negative wave energy gradient ~dH2dx<0 is created. This gradient is compensated by the rising mean sea level ζ¯. Longuet-Higgins and Stewart, 1962 and Longuet-Higgins and Stewart, 1964 showed that when the wave-motion lasts long enough, the ordinate ζ¯ of the mean sea level elevation set-up(x) satisfies the following equation: equation(13) dSxxxdx+ρgh+ζ¯xdζ¯xdx=0, where Sxx is a component of the radiation stress tensor in the direction perpendicular to the shore, associated with wave energy: equation(14) Sxx=32E, where E=18ρgH2. Before the breaking zone, where waves do not

break and we have no energy loss, changes in the mean sea level are due only to the changing depth. In this case we have: equation(15) ζ¯=−18kH2sinh2kh. Particularly in the immediate vicinity of the breaking zone, for a very small depth, when sinh (2kh) ≈ 2kh, from (15) we obtain: equation(16) ζbr=−116γbrHbr, where Hbr is the height of the wave at the breaking point. Since we know where a wave begins to break down, the coefficient γ   ≈ 0.8 which gives a mean decrease of water level ζ¯br of 4 – 5% Fludarabine ic50 of local depth. When the water depth h(x) = h1 – βx, the height of the mean sea level elevation is also a linear function of distance. In the light of this, we thus have: equation(17) ζ¯x=ζ¯br+38γbr21+38γbr2−1hbr−hx. The maximum elevation of the mean water level set-up to the coastline, where h(x) = 0, takes the following form: equation(18) ζ¯max=ζ¯br+38γbr211+38γbr2hbr, which for very small depths, after taking (16) into account, gives: equation(19) ζ¯max≈516γbr. Dally et al. (1985) showed that after a wave has broken, its height H(x) over a sloping bottom changes as follows: equation(20) HxHbr=hxhbrKβ−121+α−αhxhbr212, where equation(21) α=KΓ2β52−KβHhbr2,hx=hbr−βx. K and Γ are empirical coefficients.